Safe and Secure in Lunenburg, Thanks to Adams & Knickle

Pride of Baltimore II arriving in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, June 11, 2019, courtesy of Out the Gate Sailing

Photo: Arriving in Lunenburg, June 11, 2019, courtesy of Out the Gate Sailing

Date: Tuesday, June 11, 2019
Time: 1600 ADT (local Lunenburg time)
Position: Moored at Adams & Knickle Ltd. piers, Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada

Sailed all the way across the Gulf of Maine with all of Pride’s reaching sail set (main, main-gaff-topsail, foresail, fore-staysail, jib, jib-topsail, square-foretopsail, square-topgallant-sail, and studding-sail). Speed ranged from 6 to 8 knots with a touch of 9 knots a couple of times using southwesterly wind of 10 to 15 knots. Sailed 24 hours from noon Sunday to noon Monday, crossing 172 nautical miles — smooth sea; steady angle of heel of around 5 degrees; a very sedate sail; very relaxing; no sails needing adjusting; only steer and monitor progress, and check the ship hourly.

From noon Monday, near Cape Sable, to Tuesday morning, motored to Lunenburg. Hardly a breath of wind. Maybe a little bit of southeasterly at 5 knots or less. After striking the studding-sail, square-topgallant-sail, and square-fore-topsail near Cape Sable, left the other sails up for the motoring to Lunenburg. Sometimes they assisted. More often they hung quietly with a smooth sea. Reset the square-fore-topsail for the entry into Lunenburg Harbor. No real sailing. Just a pretty picture with a couple of cannon salutes. Then an orderly taking of sail before mooring up at Adams & Knickle.

Customs clearance was done by email, largely because staff at Pride, Inc. were diligent and timely with emailed paperwork well in advance of actual arrival. A very friendly welcome from our friends with Picton Castle. A horn salute and a so-long wave from Bluenose II, because she departed for Halifax soon after our arrival. We will see her again Saturday. The plan is for all three vessels to depart Lunenburg on Saturday together. All three are going to be participating in the TALL SHIPS CHALLENGE® Great Lakes 2019, a series of festivals and races in the Great Lakes coordinated by Tall Ships America. All three vessels departing together ought to be an interesting site for Lunenburg!

Now that all the formalities with authorities are handled and welcomes accomplished, the rest of this day is spent on ship maintenance and other chores, such as laundry. Local knowledge assistance and a bit of local errand assistance from Picton Castle makes for great efficiency.

For those interested in learning more about the dock Pride is using here in Lunenburg, search Wikipedia for “Adams & Knickle”. Pride has moored here before. They have been very accommodating to Pride and other visiting tall ships needing to meet Canadian maritime security regulations. Adams & Knickle is a fishing company with piers and facilities that meet national maritime security regulations. Pride is required to moor at secured marine mooring facilities — meaning gated, fenced and monitored around the clock — when visiting Canada. All for protection from possible terrorism goals. Adams & Knickle’s owner has long been generous with support for visiting tall ships requiring secure mooring facilities. And so, Pride is again welcomed by Adams & Knickle. We very much appreciate this very significant thoughtfulness! A company started in 1897. Check them out.

Captain Jan C. Miles

PRIDE II Headed to Toronto

After spending a few days in Norfolk, VA for the Norfolk Harborfest, Pride of Baltimore II, America’s Star-Spangled Ambassador, has made her way north towards Toronto. There, the tall ship will promote Maryland’s economic interests in ports around Canada, including the Redpath Waterfront Festival.

The Redpath Waterfront Festival (RWF) presented by PortsToronto will once again launch the TALL SHIPS CHALLENGE® Great Lakes series in Toronto on Canada Day weekend, July 1-3. Other tall ships joining the event include, El Galeón, an early colonial Spanish ship and floating museum and the Draken Harald Hårfagre, the most authentic Viking ship of its kind since 1000 A.D. These ships will offer public tours in Toronto before each continues through the Great Lakes with stops at ports on both sides of the border. This year the RWF will welcome, for the first time, the Royal Canadian Navy. Additional programming will include the Waterfront Artisan Market and the Ultimutts Stunt Dog Show. Visitors will also be able to check out live music, dance demos, live art and buskers at the Simcoe and Rees WaveDecks and take in the beauty of the Grand Finale Parade of Sail. General admission to the festival is FREE with a nominal charge for ship deck tours.

"Farewell to (Tall Ships) Nova Scotia," Two Quaint and Totally Different Towns, and Chasseur – Pride II's Pride and Joy

Tuesday, 31 July, 2012
Pos: 43 21.2’N X 066 42.1’W
Wx: WSW F 2, Seas 1′, Fog
Pride of Baltimore II Motor-Sailing under Mains’l, Gaff Tops’l and Stays’l at 6 knots.

After nearly two weeks in the cold waters and warm hospitality of Nova Scotia, Pride of Baltimore II is bound for Maine and the USA. Since our fully-packed stay in Halifax, and our action-packed passage from the Nova Scotian Capital, the pace took a decidedly more relaxing turn in the Southwestern shore towns of Lunenburg and Shelburne. But our hosts stayed just as welcoming and the visitors to the ship just as excited. Open to the public for two days in both places, Pride II saw more visitors than the total population in each town – 4422 in Lunenburg and 2888 in Shelburne! And while both towns could safely and accurately be described as “quaint,” they are about as different as can be.  

Steeped in the history of Loyalists to the crown fleeing a fledgling America for still British Canada, Shelburne has an almost English feel to it. And the flotilla of private vessels who welcomed Pride II in on Friday afternoon illustrated that they temper their ardent preservation of history with performance modern sailing. A good fit for Pride II. On arrival, the local Longboat Society, who maintain and drill with a pair of 27′ replica Bounty-style longboats, hosted a reception aboard in full 18th Century attire. With the rest of the fleet delayed by weather and Pride II there alone, they Society regaled us with the history of their town, featuring seven generations of the Cox family building fishing vessels, from schooners to dories to power-driven boats. The buildings of the Cox shipyard are all a museum now, immaculately preserved and giving the town an almost movie set quality along the waterfront. Dozens of people in traditional costume or pirate garb frequently firing off replica weapons only added to the picture.

Though small, Shelburne was certainly cozy and welcoming, from the initial flotilla to the sparse crowd on the dock to see our departure. Once off the dock, we shut down straight away, set the foretops’l and fired port guns in salute, then ran down the harbor on a Northeast breeze. The harbor itself seemed loath to let us leave, presenting us with a Southerly just before we cleared the outer reaches, and forcing us to short tack our way out beyond the rocky headlands. But it is, in fact, “Farewell to Nova Scotia” for us. 

But let’s not forget about the middle port in our Canadian foray – Lunenburg, a fishing town with an active working waterfront full of trawlers and draggers, all against a museum-like backdrop of Victorian houses and traditional ships. Homeport to Canada’s iconic schooner Bluenose II (currently being rebuilt), she is also the home of the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. The museum has excellent exhibits and historic ships, but the thing it truly captures is the spirit of the town’s seagoing history. And modern day adventurers can hail at the offices for the world-ranging barque Picton Castle, a ship whose exotic voyaging, international crew and preservation of traditional seamanship perpetuate Lunenburg’s connection to the sea.

The sea is truly in the blood there – against a background of seven tall ships, the mooring field south of the waterfront was littered with local traditional small craft. On Wednesday night they were all underway for racing or fun, and Pride II’s crew was even invited to borrow a dory schooner appropriately named Miscreant. Post sailing, racing or not, all hands are called to the Malagash Harbor Yacht Club for burgers and beers.

Perhaps the most perfect yacht club in all the world, the Malagash’s Clubhouse consists of two rafts pinned together – one with a small shack and one with a barbeque grill – on a mooring in the harbor. Membership is granted on arrival, the dress code encourages shorts and bare feet, and access is only by boat. Looking around at a fleet of twenty or so traditional craft rafted up to the “club,” I found myself thinking a person could say they were raised “Lunenburg” in the same way they might say they were raised Catholic, or Jewish, or Presbyterian. Seafaring is not a pastime in Lunenburg, it is a cultural imperative.

And among those rafted boats was Pride II’s own Chasseur. Named with an historic nod to Thomas Boyle’s famous privateer, and often called “the world’s most expensive deck-box,” Chasseur has certainly been a bit underutilized in her life. The crew is too busy, the schedule too tight, the water too murky to risk a scum line on her white hull. All these, while often true, have kept Chasseur from being used to expand the seamanship of many Pride II sailors. After all, much of what a sailor needs to know can be best learned in a small, open boat.

But Nova Scotia saw a rebirth of Chasseur. Rigged “on the hip” at our Halifax dock in order to help clear some deck space for the relatively steep gangway, she tempted more than a few crew, myself included, to take her out. So in she went, and after a night of swelling, I bailed her quick and took her for a row around George’s Island as a morning work-out. Small enough to be single-handed, yet spacious enough to hold six, she’s been rowed and sailed more in the last week than she has in my four and more years with Pride II. Both the boat and the crew are happier for it. She’s been used for R&R, physical fitness, crew training and development, and even as transportation when we showed up in style to Shelburne’s waterfront crew party.

It’s good to show her off. Her full, buoyant lap-straked hull in sharp contrast to the hard-chined and flat bottomed dories of Nova Scotia, she is pleasing to both the sailor and the on-looker. Both her hull and her cotton sail are older than all our deckhands, yet she sails with all the life and joy of a laughing child.

After half a dozen rows in her, I finally took her for a sail Sunday afternoon, in a moderate Nor’easter and a light rain. Partly out of curiosity, and partly to settle a debate with Bosun Elizabeth Foretek, I forewent the rudder and tiller, maneuvering Chasseur only by sail trim and shifting weight. Those of you skeptical as to the existence of magic should try this. Constantly adjusting her trim, often standing up with the sheet in hand and the feel of her progress under my feet through her sole boards; she demanded to be sailed like a windsurfer or a planing dingy. For steering she responded to a foot placed forward or aft, a step to leeward or by hiking out with my feet tucked under a thwart in the gusts, keeping her flat to keep her from rounding up. Then the challenge of tacking – ducking to leeward and nearly diving for the bow, standing up in front of the mast and pushing her lee rail almost under water with my foot, then scampering over thwarts to the stern sheets so her head would pay off onto the next tack. Some might say physics, but in the misty rain of Shelburne Harbor, it felt like magic.

She requires constant tinkering, just like her “mother ship” Pride II. So, good for the crew to be out and tinkering, practicing the finer details of the craft we focus so intently on aboard the schooner herself. And fitting, as we enter the thick of the War of 1812 Bicentennial, that Chasseur should be so reborn, and once again teaching us all a thing or two about real sailing.

All best,

Captain Jamie Trost and the “States” bound crew of Pride of Baltimore II (and Chasseur)


Waiting out the storm at anchor in Portland

PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II rests at anchor in Portland Harbor, Maine after sailing in at 0800 hours this morning (Saturday). Rain and wind that started around 0200 hours out in the Gulf of Maine created a decent swell that caused quite a bit of heaving and yawing for PRIDE while also making all on watch in the pitch black night dripping wet. With the wind came a chance for PRIDE to sail at 10 knots after motoring most of the way across the Gulf of Maine through near calm conditions.

Approaching Portland Harbor entrance in the pre-dawn light with the ocean swell and the rain at great speed created a lot of fast action on deck for the crew to prepare for entrance while also executing a jibe. First take in the mainsail, then take the jib, then pre-brace the square topsail yards, then turn the ship and jibe the foresail and staysail, then set things up properly for the new reach while steering into the narrow slot of the harbor entrance. A slot with ample space but looking pretty small with the heaving and the yawing brought about by the increasing swell.

We are invited to lay alongside a floating pier at Portland Yacht Services to clear Customs and remain the weekend if we want. But the dock is exposed to the SE to E winds and I have decided it is not prudent to lay alongside in the current conditions. So we are at anchor. We launched the small rigid bottom inflatable boat to go fetch the Customs Agent aboard for clearance.

Now that all the formalities are completed we can settle down a bit and wait developments with the weather. Till things change for the better no one is going ashore and we remain in watches keeping an eye on PRIDE’s anchorage…to be sure we do not start dragging without knowing…should the wind come up a bit more than predicted. Improvements will come…maybe sooner if Danny drifts offshore a little more than projected as he passes by. We can hope. We all hear that Portland is a great town for an evening.

Jan C. Miles, Captain aboard Pride of Baltimore II

Saying Goodbye to Canada Brings Us One Step Closer to Home

PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II is likely to be back in the USA tomorrow in Portland Harbor, Maine. Currently she is motoring along in virtually calm wind conditions with little to no sea swell. A beautiful high pressure like day. Tropical Storm Danny has recently been forecast to nearly fall apart…i.e. is forecast to be somewhat smaller than earlier forecasts. This is not a bad thing…eh?

PRIDE got into Lunenburg the day before yesterday…very early in the morning.  With the awesome generosity of locals like the Captain of the Schooner BLUENOSE II, the folks at the Museum of Fisheries and the staff at the office of the Barque PICTON CASTLE, the crew were able to attend to the necessary details of ship care and preparation for eventual departure by lunch time. So they got Wednesday afternoon off in that wonderful pocket of just barely surviving traditional sail-centric activities in this new 21st Century we are experiencing.

Yesterday (Thursday) was spent on more maintenance as I dealt with Canadian Customs, US Customs and determined the best time to get underway considering local weather and the developments of TS Danny. Eventually we got underway in a decent NW breeze and sailed out of Lunenburg and down the Southwestern Shore of Nova Scotia. The goal being to get across the Gulf of Maine quickly, within 48 hours cover the 300 nautical miles to Portland ahead of Danny, and be positioned on the “safe semicircle” side of Danny and located in a safe well protected harbor of Portland as he passes by mid-day Saturday. Since sundown yesterday we have been motoring with little to no wind. At this writing there remains 150 miles to go and it looks like we will be on schedule to be in good shelter for Danny and meet with US Customs in Portland at 1000 hours Saturday…tomorrow.

Then we will have to keep an eye on ole’ Danny. Smaller it may become…but still there are forecasts of 30 knots or more along the coast of Maine for Saturday night into Sunday. It is unclear if there is a dock PRIDE can lay at for those winds. We may have to go to anchor at first when the wind is out of the East. But when it shifts to NW…as is expected…maybe then we can go to a dock and be able to let the crew get ashore for a visit in downtown Portland.

Jan C. Miles, Captain aboard Pride of Baltimore II

Hurrican Bill is upon us.

Rain. Lots of rain. Monsoonal rain. But no wind as yet. Forecasters have steadily been downgrading the likely wind strength PRIDE is likely to experience while sheltered in Summerside, Prince Edward Island.

What was a possibility of 50 knots forecast all they way back to when PRIDE was sailing past the north side of the Gaspe Peninsula on Thursday has dropped to maybe 30 knots. But that does not mean there is the same kind of reduction of strength on the Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia. They will still experience more than 50 knot winds as Hurricane Bill runs more or less parallel to the coast from Cape Sable in the west passed Cape Breton Island to the east. The closest distance to PRIDE that Bill will have as it goes by is around 110 nautical miles. The farthest 50 knot winds reach from Bill’s center is forecast to be 40 miles at the time it passes by PRIDE. So it makes sense that with PRIDE being so much further away from Bill’s center than 40 miles, we would experience substantially less wind strength than 50 knots.

So we sit tight and keep an eye on things. We have had some heavy rain this morning…the wind that is due will not be here till after lunch and maybe not till mid afternoon and last into late evening before reducing. This morning I am holding forth to the crew on what I know about hurricanes and how they move.

Jan C. Miles, Captain aboard Pride of Baltimore II